Crossway Binding Method B
Method B is a quick way of attaching binding, and is useful for treating seam turnings and edges on quickly made clothing and articles.
It is the method to use also for straight bindings such as tape, ribbon, braid and Prussian binding. The binding is fixed with one row of machining which shows on both sides of the work.
1. To prepare the binding strip Fold the binding strip almost in half, making it a thread or two deeper on one side, with the right side outside, Press the crease in well.
2. To prepare the edge of an article proceed as given for method A.
3. To fix the binding.
Place the edge of the article inside the binding level with the crease, and with the deeper side of the binding on the wrong side of the article.
Pin the under side of the binding to the article, working with the right side of the article towards the worker, Piping
Fold the binding strip on to the right side of the article and transfer the pins to hold both edges of the binding to the article.
Tack and machine close to the edge of the binding on the right side,
Piping at edges of necks, sleeves, belts and hem edges is often fashionable for trimming as well as strengthening. A line corded piping is popular on toddlers’ clothing. The piping is generally inserted into the seam formed by joining on a facing straight, shaped or cross way.
Therefore once the method of constructing a facing is known it is a simple matter to insert a piping into the join. The method can be followed for piped seams on.
Note. Attach the piping to the main part of the garment and place the facing on top.
Lace is made of cotton, linen or nylon. It can be bought as and edging in a narrow or wide width, or as piece lace’ for insertions. Piece lace is sometimes used to make the whole garment, as it is as wide as single width material.
Real lace, that is, hand-made lace, still made in many countries, notably France, Belgium, Spain, Italy. England and Ireland, is very expensive. However, excellent machine-made copies of for example, Valentines and embroidered net laces can be bought cheaply.
To judge if a lace edging will be satisfactory in wear, the shaped edge should be examined. This should be firm and well finished. A poor quality will soon pull away from the net and become ragged.
The straight edge of the lace which is attached to the garment generally has a fine thread worked into it, which can be pulled up in order to ease and gather the lace when required. It will be notice that on the right side of the lace, the design is raised.
1. Methods of attaching lace to edges
(a) By hand
Oversaw the lace to the edge after it has been previously neatened with a hem or facing. Draw up the gathering thread in the lace if it is to be frilled on but avoid making it very full. Place the right side of the lace against the right side of the edge and pin it in position.
Oversaw the lace to the garment very closely Flatten the join and press well or the embroidery stitch to fix lace. Place the lace on the right side of the garment over the raw edge, with the right side of the lace uppermost.
Fix lace first with running stitches and then with strong embroidery stitches worked closely together over the edge, e.g. fine loop stitching, or pin stitch. Cut the fabric close to the lace on the wrong side on fine strong materials which will not pull away from the stitching in wear, otherwise leave a narrow turning and overcast the edge.
(b) By machine
Fix lace with the machining which holds a hem in position. Make a narrow, flat, edge-stitched hem but before working the final stitching, place the lace in position on the right side so that it will be attached with the machining.
Alternatively, use the method given above for fixing with embroidery stitches but use zigzag machining.